Boxford Lathe Tumble Reverse Gear - Early Models 14.5-degree pressure angle

Boxford lathe Tumble Reverse Gears 14.5 pressure angle - Early Models
This gear is for all Models prior to Serial Serial No. 11-13513 - the introduction of the Mk.2 Models that have a single lever on top of the headstock to engage the backgears. 32 teeth and a 14.5-degree pressure angle. Made in the correct grade of cast iron - we have sold these gears for over 30 years.
For later models (the Mk. 2 AUD, BUD and CUD) with a 20-degree pressure angle see here.

Myford Super 7 and ML7R Drive Belts Z-section T-Link

Motor to countershaft and countershaft to headstock belts of the NuT-Link Type in a Z-Section.  Link belts help to reduce the vibration normally passed from a single-phase motor to the lathe - and was a fitting often used by Myford Service engineers to "quieten" a noisy machine. On the Super 7 and ML7R, the T-link belt is highly effective on the drive from motor to countershaft.

Myford Super 7 and ML7R Drive Belts - PowerTwist

PLEASE READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING CAREFULLY: The only PowerTwist belt needed on the Super 7 and ML7R is an "A" section from the countershaft to the headstock. The use of this belt guarantees that the lowest speed will be available as, when fitted with the metal-pin NuT-link there may not be enough room between the inner face of the headstock and the largest pulley on the main spindle.

Hobbymat Lathe Motor Conversion

The usual problem with Hobbymat motors is a failure of the centrifugal switch or capacitor. We sell the correct capacitor and a set of detailed dismantling instructions for £21 + post (+ VAT in the UK and EU) that allows the motor to be converted to a much better "cap-start-cap-run" configuration - full instructions provided. The conversion allows the motor to start without the need for the troublesome centrifugal switch. 

Myford ML8 Drive Belt

For the Myford ML8 lathe the new, improved metal-pin T-link belting is ideal. It's a sectional belt so no dismantling is needed to fit it. For lathes on the maker's stand 1.2 metres is the length needed. If mounted on a home-made bench with a thick wooden top, 1.3 metres is usually sufficient. The width required is 1/2" (13 mm) = an "A" section.

Minilor TR1 Lathe Drive Belts

Minilor TR1 lathe and milling head toothed and V drive belts. A complete set of four comprising: toothed 420, 340 and 280 with the V-belt has replaced by a Swiss-made round belt in a high-grip Polycord.  Although these belts are all the correct length and tooth pitch, they can vary slightly in width.
 

Myford Mystro Wood Lathe Drive Belts

The correct high-quality drive belts for Myford Mystro wood-turning lathes.
There are two belts:
10 mm wide for the standard machine and about 20 mm wide for the variable-speed model. Click the down arrow in the box below to select the one you need.

 

Boxford & South Bend Backgear Shaft

Boxford & South Bend Backgear 24-tooth Shaft. We can supply - on a service-exchange basis - a backgear shaft fitted with a new steel gear. The large gear can be knocked off to save postage (though some early shafts were one piece). Early gears have a 14.5-degree pressure angle and have no markings to show this. Later gears are 21 degrees and in this case the shaft is stamped "21" - though it's sometimes hard to see. We can supply both types.

Emcomat 7, 7L, 8.4, 8.6, V8 lathes belt -WIDE 1-inch

Emcomat 7, 7L, 8.4, 8.6 and V8 lathes: drive belt, toothed type  1-inch (25mm) wide. Unfortunately, this belt is now out of production - but the 3/4" (20mm) belt for the earlier version of this lathe fits and works just as well - but clearly, if the lathe is hard used, will not last as long.

Hobbymat Lathe Tailstock Chuck

Hobbymat MD65 metal lathe, Hobbymat Variant wood lathe, Prazimat MD300, Saupe & Sohn, Hobby 120 Sliven and Proxxon version of the lathe. Tailstock Chuck (keyed type) zero to 13 mm capacity on the correct Morse fitting.

Raglan Little John Top Slide

The upper top slide casting for the Raglan Little John lathe. It is not uncommon for this slide to snap in two across the front edge of the T-slot. Machined complete ready to fit - though you have to transfer the gib-strip adjustment screws and, once assembled, drill and tap the holes to secure the feed-screw end plate.